The Bight, The Motel and a Job

7/04/17 Eucla to Nullarbor 214kms

Getting up this morning was a bit difficult. It was a bit cooler, and we were both feeling tired. After a great night meeting new people, we were the last ones up. In fact, most people had actually packed up and gone. Wow, what’s the actual time? My phone said 7:30am, but here it is weird, add 45 minutes just to confuse everyone. Even so, still bloody early, what’s the rush people?

Looking down to the Bight from Eucla caravan park.

So we slowly got up, and had some breakfast and coffee. Mike and Linda were still here, just finishing their tea, so we joined them for a bit. Then they left too. Which left us! So we got to it and packed up. As we did that, new caravans were coming in to stay….what the hell? Seriously, what the hell? Anyway, we got going about quarter to ten, a whole 5kms down towards the beach to check out the old Telegraph station, slowly being buried in the sand dunes. It would have been quite impressive once.


Mick and Linda, fun couple having a great little trip, and the Old Telegraph Station.

About 10:30am, we were back up at Eucla caravan park, collecting the cheese and snow peas we’d forgotten, can’t blame Ol Nonuts for this one. Might be able to market this new dieting technique – just leave your food a couple of hundred kilometres away, on a deserted road, with no shops and a quarantine station you need to hand anything you haven’t lost, over. Guaranteed weight loss….usually just your luggage.

So finally on the Eyre Highway, heading East towards the Bunda Cliffs. It doesn’t matter how many times I see this sight, it still amazes me. It is stunning! Good or bad weather, just stunning. So we made many stops, checking them out, and snapping a thousand photos. Thank goodness for digital, or we’d be out of film.


The Great Aussie Bight, is magnificent, never boring.

At our last cliff stop, we spotted a Caravan with Mandurah plates, and a lovely lady, with a very cute fluffy puppy, gave us a huge bag of carrots and onions. She wouldn’t take no for an answer, so while Will took more snaps, I munched down on 3 of the crunchy buggers! It helped distract me from needing to pee, while waiting amongst a posse of vans. Back on the highway, we made a final stop to relieve the pressure, and have another carrot. Then as the crosswinds picked up, we cruised off to Nullarbor roadhouse.


Crossing the state border, no problems, and remember these big long trucks?

Yay, we made it again. We hadn’t come very far, but it had taken us 5 hours. Ha ha ha, we did better on our pushies. It doesn’t matter, we’re tired and happy to stay here. We got a room for old times sake, and proceeded to shower and blog and charge stuff. Quite relaxing. We shouted ourselves a couple of beers in the bar, and dinner, then finished blogging so we could get to sleep. No excuses, we can get away early and make Ceduna tomorrow.

8/04/17 Nullarbor to Ceduna 372kms

Good evening Nullarbor Roadhouse.

Yep, we did get up early, by WA time, but 7am Central standard time is really not that early. For us it was earlier than usual. A measly half bowl of disgusting cereal each, a coffee, and pack. We are both getting more refined in our packing, but still making silly errors, like closing a bag, tying it down, then finding one last thing that should be in it. Ugh! This shouldn’t happen! But, we are still getting into the groove, and things are not settled into their rightful places. Minor adjustments are still being made.

So we Departed about 8:30am, slightly later than planned, but not too bad. We only had to go 14kms down the highway, before turning South towards The Head of The Bight! This is where, between June and October, you can view Southern Right Whales and Humpbacks, with their calves. It is also where the Bunda Cliffs end. There are boardwalks and viewing platforms, clean toilets and a coffee shop. You have to pay an entry fee, it is managed by The Aboriginal Lands Trust, and it is well kept by Terry and his wife. We had an overcast visit, and of course no whales yet, but it was beautiful and amazing anyway. We also had a great talk with Terry, who has been looking after the place for seven years, and is ready for something new. “Do ya want a job?” He asks us, half serious, as they have resigned and still no one has been hired to replace them. We actually have to think hard, it would be a great opportunity and experience, but we aren’t ready to start in May, and Terry won’t stay till January…..oh well mate, just move on and leave it to them.


Head of the Bight, is beautiful even if it is an overcast day.

The ride today was a fare bit cooler, and windier. We enjoyed riding the rolling hills of the Yalata Aboriginal Reserve, but the wind was picking up. It was mostly a South Easterly, and gusting. By Nundroo, we needed a break from it, and the half bowl of bird seed for breakfast wasn’t keeping us going, so we decided to get a toastie at the Roadhouse. Now here is a tip for you all! If the chef is Indian, DON’T ask for any type of toasted sandwich. For one, Indians don’t know toast, and two, they don’t know sandwiches. We were so shocked, we couldn’t even take a photo. “Two bacon and egg toasties, one with tomato, please, barbecue sauce too please?” “No problem, I’ll bring them to you.” Says the very pleasant young English backpacker, who served us. Not a very long wait, and here is why…… two very pale, slightly crusty, sangers come out. Hhhmmm, it doesn’t look toasted, but feels not like fresh bread. Heated…maybe? Massacred egg, dry and severely beaten, bacon (looks pretty good actually), all swimming in sauce. It is squeezing from every gap and covering the plate. Will takes a big bite into his one that looks the same, and shakes his head in disgust. In between his sundried bread, is a huge chunk of cold tomato. Oh dear, here is a problem for someone who made hundreds of toasties, and hates cold tomato on his hot toasties. Besides, it was almost half a tomato in one chunk! The worst! The very cheerful, bobbleheading chef came out to see if we were happy. Unfortunately, we were not really. But aside from suggesting he toast the bread a lot more, like, lots lots more, and put the tomato on the grill, we ate it and left in disappointment. The lovely Indian guy, as Indian guys do, went away happily to continue whatever he was doing. No offence taken. Huh!


A nice little rest from the wind, while Will finishes his morning coffee.

On that note, we headed off to check out Fowlers Bay, we’d never called in there, down a limestone gravel road. Nothing like practice to improve the skills on dirt roads. We didn’t let our tyres down, so we slowed down and just tried to relax and pick a good hard line. A few moments of little slippery back wheels, but we both got through fairly easily. Fowlers Bay is a cute little seaside village, with a small shop, a small caravan park, and a long jetty. Got to love South Aussie towns and their jetties. Carrying on the loop road, still gravel, but slightly better, we only had another 12kms until it turned to sealed road, and the wind was at our backs. For about another 12kms, anyway. The last 100kms, through Penong, where we fuelled up, and to Ceduna, we battled the cold southerly wind. It was blowing into our right sides, making us lean into it on quite an angle. It was very tiring. Coming into Ceduna, you have to stop and declare all your fresh fruit and veg, so we did that, and were told we could keep our one onion. Yay!


Heading out to Fowlers Bay. A cute little fishing village worth a stop over.

Being Saturday, we headed straight for the supermarket for food supplies. While at The Head of The Bight, we’d called ahead to the Pharmacy, as we needed stuff, and they were closing at 12pm. We knew we wouldn’t make it. I spoke to the pharmacist, Ken, and arranged and paid for our stuff, which he said would be at Bills Chicken Shop, the fish and chip shop next door. So while Will got groceries, I got the other stuff. Thanks Ken, really appreciate your help. Then off to our favourite caravan park in Ceduna, The Foreshore. Marty and Jodie have owned it for 6 yrs, and have really done a great job. This time, they have laid grass and built a new toilet block, opened four days ago. Looking great guys, we totally recommend this one. Best camp kitchen we’ve seen.


Hello again Ceduna, love your new grass and toilet blocks.

Getting set up, everyone chats to us, especially one very friendly man, Phil, who is travelling around with his wife Robin. They were cooking up a pot full of goodies, as they are heading over the border tomorrow and can’t take fresh veggies. Did we want some, there was too much for 2, probably too much for 6, but okay, thank you very, very much. It was delicious and hearty, and we didn’t make a dent in it. Lovely people, exploring Australia, living in a van, and loving life. It has been another interesting day, meeting awesome Aussies. What’s on tomorrow?

Thanks for a delicious wholesome dinner Phil and Robin.

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