21st May 2019
Newman to White Gums Bore 310kms
The poor Old Girl, is still not fixed. She went off to Pilbara Toyota, the ARB agent in town, they agreed it was a warranty job, leaking seals, but couldn’t get the parts for a week. We can’t stay here for a week, so they gave us a couple of litres of Diff oil, and told us to keep it topped up, and it will be fine. After a few phone calls, to ARB, and the guys in Mandurah who installed it, we decided to do just that. ARB will repair it under warranty when we get home.
The Red Sands, where many CSR travellers go when they have vehicle issues. Nope, we were not the only ones.
We washed, we relaxed, we caught up with family, and we did another humongous shop. More Beer, more Wine, and most of all (for Max), More Tim Tams. With everything loaded, including full water bladders, we headed back out to the Talawana track, the turned in towards Rudall River National Park. It was another huge day driving for us all, and we weren’t going to make it to Desert Queen Baths, 80 more kilometres, so we found a good camp spot, that was once a working Bore. It was very good, with plenty of wood, a few camels, and a billion bloody flies…..again! Ugh!
Newman, gave us almost everything we needed. Big food shop, then we had to repackage the car, it was no mean feat.
Back on the Talawana track, we found a Len Beadell marker. Well Max did, it wasn’t that clear on the maps. We spotted our first cat, too. Bloody feral things, their tracks have been everywhere.
On our last day in Newman, Max found the last fly nets in captivity, and bought them. $12 each, a bargain in this situation. Our hero! So much better now.
White Gum Bore, used to have usable water, but it has been decommissioned. It was still a nice camp spot, with a few cautious camels lurking around.
22nd May 2019
White Gums Bore to Desert Queen Baths (Rudall River NP/Karlamilyi) 77kms
A nice morning, no rushing around, we didn’t have far to go. Well, in kilometres, anyway. It took us about four hours to drive the rough track. It was very scenic, but super slow going. We saw a heap of camels, who got a bit lippy with us, for making them get up and move off the track. They didn’t rush up, just elegantly rose, and shook their heads, waving their floppy lips at us, to let us know this was their area, and we were disturbing their midday rest. I’m sure they just went back to it after we left.
Finally a good bunch of camels. We crossed the Rudall River, which was dry, and thanked the clouds for making our photos even better.
Max in the car, is quite something. He is not used to it, and had a bit of trouble adjusting to the inability to literally stop on a dime, to take photos. There was plenty to want to take pictures of, but not always a good stopping spot. But we worked it out, and many, many, photos were taken. Eventually, mid-afternoon, we arrived at the camp area, of Desert Queen Baths. Another vehicle was there, a Swiss couple, who were rapidly whipping some clothes on. Good on them, why wouldn’t you have a nudie swim if you can?
What an amazing area. We turn in for 18kms, in low range, here. Heading straight on we’d get to Telfer. Would make for a good loop, if we weren’t heading back to the CSR.
We smashed up the camp, had some lunch, then walked in to the first pool. There are six, all different, and the guys will investigate tomorrow. But today, now, it is bath time. So in we go. Holy, holy cow, it is freezing. The ambient temp was about 34C, and the water was about 15C. Let’s just say, it took us quite a while to actually get bathed. Brrrrr.
Yep, I’m in me undies. They need a wash. It’s freezing, but I’m gunna get clean, so I’ll deal with it.
We spent the afternoon relaxing, Max exploring the spinifex and shrubbery, for critters, Will reading, and me drawing. It is a very nice spot. After dinner, again cooked on the fire, in the camp oven, we sat around and just took in the incredible stars, while listening to the dingoes howling off in the distance. Is it getting closer? I think it is! As we retired to our tents, we could hear them very close, in the scrub, arguing with each other, and making a lot of noise. It was a little spooky, but it wasn’t long before everyone was quiet and we all slept well. Probably, because Will had placed the shovel right at his side. Ha ha ha.
23rd May 2019
Desert Queen Baths, Karlamilyi (Rudall River NP)
Another glorious day to enjoy and explore. The guys walked the gorge, and the other “baths”, while I sat at created, at the first pool. Pools 1,2 & 3 were best for swimming, 4 was where the animals drink, 5 was empty, and 6 was a deep, plunge pool that would have been very nice, but it as only half full. It took them an hour and 25 minutes in, and half an hour out. They gave me plenty of time to venture in a few times, when I was hot, stripping completely off, and going all naturist. It was bloody cold, even in the middle of the day, but it was fantastic to have it all to myself
The nice Swiss couple, Verna and Felicitus. They didn’t go check out the other Baths either. The boys did enjoy their explore though.
24th May 2019
Desert Queen Baths to Georgia Bore (CSR) 170kms
Not a very exciting day, just us getting back on the CSR. We’d had our rest, now it is time to get serious, and smash out the last two thirds. Will topped up the Diff oil, we got packed, drove up to a little cave with some indigenous art, then just drove back to Georgia Bore. It took all day to do the 170 kays, and we were all over it when we got there. There were other campers at the Bore this time, with generators and lots of noise. We placed ourselves well away, as we have become very accustomed to our peace and quiet. The flies are annoying enough without added people noise.
Enjoying the views from the rise, where the little cave was. The art was not that old, but it was fun to find it.
An amazing area, great rock formations, colours and camels. They didn’t get so lippy on the way out.
Another bucket bath, no fire, and the plan ahead. We have enough supplies for 19 more days on the CSR. We will top up a little in Kunawarritji, but then we have to just keep pushing on. It’s business now. Max is keen to tackle the dunes and develop a strategy to conquer them. Will, not so much. It’s all good, and sorted.
Good old Georgia Bore, such lovely water. We are all set to conquer this track.